Thursday, June 30, 2016

The Gucci Pieces You're Going to See Everywhere This Fall

Gucci's F/W 16 campaign has finally arrived, and if you've been debating the destination of your next big vacation, the fashion brand just decided for you: Tokyo. The brand touched on the city's electric energy, creating a campaign that is a total sensory overload (in a really good way). Above it all is a glimpse at the Gucci pieces we're all craving for fall. With everything from embellished sneakers to brocade coats to some super-chic socks, Alessandro Michele once again has us craving the decadence and irreverence he's brought to the iconic brand.

Read on for a look at the campaign, and then head to Gucci and treat yourself to something fun!

Scouting Report: Red, White and New: Get Your Shop On for the Fourth of July

Photo From left: Saint James lightweight jersey nautical stripe tee; Fendi ABC fur charm. Fourth of July

Headed out east for the long weekend? Fendi is kicking off #FendiRoadTrip, a traveling retail concept in which a customized ApĂ© — a version of the distinctive three-wheeled Italian truck created in the late 1940s — loaded with accessories like Dotcom bags ($2,400) and ABC fur charms ($600) will roll into the Surf Lodge on Thursday through Monday as its first stop on a tour of the United States and Canada. At 183 Edgemere Street, Montauk.

The Los Angeles-based designers Jenni Kayne and Marysia have teamed up on a swimwear capsule available at Ms. Kayne's Hamptons pop-up that includes chic black styles with just the right amount of coverage, like a crisscross back maillot ($339). At 2 Main Street, Southampton.

Sticking in the city? A festive lightweight jersey nautical stripe tee ($83, originally $115) is among the select styles Saint James is offering for 30 percent off. At 319 Bleecker Street.

Openings and Events

On Saturday, Ralph Lauren will open a fragrance salon at the brand's uptown flagship to coincide with the debut of Ralph Lauren Collection Fragrances, a range of 10 eaux de parfums, including A Portrait of New York, A Legacy of English Elegance, and Treasures of Safari (each $240 for 100 ml), informed by the spirit of travel and the destinations that have most influenced Mr. Lauren. At 888 Madison Avenue.

On Tuesday, the Italian fine jewelry brand Vhernier will open a Madison Avenue flagship — featuring a grand 18-foot entrance, theatrical coral curtains and leather upholstered walls — following in quick succession its first New York outpost, an intimate downtown boutique adjacent to Cipriani that opened this week. Both carry stunning pieces like a woven 18-karat rose gold bracelet ($13,400) and earrings ($9,800). At 783 Madison Avenue and 55 Wall Street.

Sales

On Thursday, the CFDA Fashion Incubator will host a sample sale featuring discounts of up to 75 percent on past season styles like a Ji Oh silk jacket ($250, originally $990) and Alix ribbed Micro Modal jersey ($60, originally $126) from the current designer class. At 209 West 38th Street, third floor.

The Met Store is hosting a summer clearance event featuring discounts of up to 70 percent on accessories including a Javanese circles cuff ($150, originally $300), an abstract paint scarf ($59.50, originally $85) and more. At 1000 Fifth Avenue.

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Wednesday, June 29, 2016

The Most Popular Fashion Sneaker Just Got a Crazy Makeover

There's a new Stan Smith in town, and it's already selling out. Adidas just released its latest iteration of the wildly popular sneaker style, and for any '90s kid who was hopelessly devoted to their hypercolor T-shirt, this one's for you.

So what makes this style so special? The white leather on the upper part of the sneaker is glossed over with a special UV-sensitive coating, meaning it changes color in the sun. (The photos on Adidas's website display the shoe in a pretty mint green hue.) Watching anything change colors in the sun never gets old, let alone the fashion world's favorite sneaker.

Keep scrolling to shop the shoe while you can—we're clearly not the only '90s kids who are enamored with the chameleon-like Stan Smiths.

Unbuttoned: The Rise of Fashion DIY 2.0

But there is a fine line between giving consumers a voice and facilitating cacophony.

Before everyone gets carried away and rushes down to seize power for themselves and start decorating, it is worth pausing and acknowledging that there is a risk to all this. Not just in making a bad color choice — after all, there is a reason designers are designers and the rest of us are not: They have an understanding of fabrics and colors and what works and what does not, that has been honed over time — but in revealing your own lapses in taste or judgment.

We all have embarrassing clothing choices hidden away in our closet. DIY simply ups the ante.

This was brought home to me a few years ago when I designed my own Fendi Peekaboo bag for an article. I have rarely experienced as much anxiety as I did when faced with all those leathers and hardware options. And I didn't even have to live with the results of my choices — someone else did (it was auctioned for charity).

Nevertheless, I was racked with self-doubt. What if I messed up? Seeing little squares of suede and nappa and trying to imagine them supersized on a tote bag was almost impossible. I spent hours hemming and hawing, and, even with the advice of the extraordinarily patient Fendi Made to Order expert, was unconvinced it would all be O.K. in the end.

Maybe that simply reveals my own lack of imagination — those who can't do, critique — but I doubt I am alone here. It's one thing to do what my friends and I did in high school: Take your old jeans, chop them off at the knees, slice them up the seams and make them into "new" denim skirts by inserting assorted fabrics into the middle.

It's an entirely different thing to do something similar with an investment garment you will have for years. What you love today — what expresses your attitudes and obsessions at this political and social moment — you may find excruciatingly embarrassing tomorrow. This is especially true of things such as the patches available on Gucci and OC jackets, for example: It could seem completely apropos to decorate your bomber with, say, bees and snakes, or emojis, hamb urgers and pizza, at the moment, but in two years might just seem laughable.

A young friend likened the personalization project to tattoos, only safer and less painful. But if that is the comparable then we might consider the lesson of Johnny Depp and the seemingly painful laser transformation of his "Winona Forever" ink into "Wino Forever." To wit: Think twice (or three times) about what you choose for posterity, lest you become one of those marked, literally, by regret. Or clad in it.

Theoretically there are protections built in to the customization process, in that the options have been approved by the designer and there are advisers on hand (though how they might steer a would-be buyer away from a mistake in a world where the mantra is "the customer is always right," I wonder). At least whe n it comes to the Jimmy Choo offering, nothing is irrevocable since everything is removable; the buttons come with coverings in the same fabric as the shoe or bag, so they look more like three-dimensional polka dots. Though it is more than possible to go over the top with attaching the sparkles.

Anya Hindmarch, the designer who helped restart the craze with her bag stickers — permanent decals you attach to your handbags — said she sees the safety net as the fact that she still designs the bag (the canvas); it is only the adornment that is optional.

Gucci has preselected the places where DIYers can choose to put their desired patch or initials or embroidery, and Carol Lim of Opening Ceremony said she and her co-founder, Humberto Leon, believed that their varsity jacket was recognizable enough on its own, no matter the decoration. Still, she mused, "If someone wanted to go really crazy and embellish everywhere, would we say, 'You can't do that?' We haven't so far."

There is a lot of upside to individual expression, but do not forget: The mistakes you make will be your own.

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Tuesday, June 28, 2016

The Awesome Styling Trick We Learned From Instagram

Instagram is an endless source of inspiration, allowing us to virtually travel the globe and peek into the lives of stylish denizens the world over. But it's also teeming with accounts that focus solely on the artistry of fashion, homing in on details that we risk missing in a time of so much engaging content. Enter @AxDesignMagazine, a compilation of the coolest and quirkiest detail shots from fashion runway shows and lookbooks. It's the work of a creative agency in Istanbul, Turkey, called AXD, that focuses on digital brand management and art direction.

While doing our regular scroll through the account recently, we stumbled upon an image (below) featuring a style trick that's both unique and accessible: the bandana scarf as ankle-tie.

Scroll down to learn how it works!

On the Runway: Despite ‘Brexit’ Uncertainty, Anya Hindmarch Is Adding Men’s Wear

Photo Anya Hindmarch, here at her spring 2015 show, is adding men's bags, leather goods and sneakers to her mix. Credit Samir Hussein/Getty Images

All the question marks surrounding Britain's vote to leave the European Union and what it means for British businesses, not to mention the confusion about the future of the men's wear season, which ended in Europe on Sunday (New York men's wear begins July 11), has not stopped a growing group of British women's wear designers from deciding that now is a good time to get in on the men's market.

After Stella McCartney's announcement that she would debut a full men's wear line in November, the leather goods doyenne Anya Hindmarch is adding a "For Him" collection.

Anya Hindmarch Men's, a capsule collection of three bag styles (a backpack, a tote and a quasi-briefcase) in relatively classic leather, along with small leather goods and sneakers featuring the designer's signature subversive embellishments (googly eyes, smiley faces, men at work signs and pixelated Space Invaders-style icons), will be introduced starting next month.

Ms. Hindmarch said she felt the timing was right because "the collection pretty much launched itself."

Photo An illustration by Markus Magnusson showing one of Ms. Hindmarch's new bags for men. Credit Markus Magnusson

"Men were coming in and buying pieces that were part of our women's collection," she said, "as well as ordering pieces from our bespoke shop, where customers are pretty much split 50-50 between the sexes, so we thought we might as well do it in a more organized way."

And, she said, the move to designing for men from designing for women did not require a great leap of either imagination or resources.

"We didn't need masses of differentiation," she said. "Men's hands are bigger, so we had to change the size of some handles and proportions, and women tend to wear more cross-body bags, but that's about it."

Still, her men's line will not be joining the roster for the next London Fashion Week Men's, due in January. Like Ms. McCartney, who will show her men's wear with her women's pre-spring in November, Ms. Hindmarch (who is one of the few accessory designers to show on the catwalk schedule) is hedging her bets: She will show her men's line with her women's line during the London women's ready-to-wear season in September.

The collection also signals the second recent expansion for Mayhoola for Investments, the Qatar-based sovereign wealth vehicle that owns a majority stake in the Hindmarch business, as well as Valentino and Pal Zileri. Last week, it revealed it had added the Paris fashion house of Balmain, whose men's wear show was held on Saturday, to its stable.

If it looks like a global conglomerate, and quacks like a global conglomerate....

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Monday, June 27, 2016

Adidas and Kate Moss Just Crowned the New It Sneaker

For anyone who considers themselves a sucker for classic sneakers, there's a new revival you'll want to keep your eyes on. While you probably already own Stan Smiths and Superstars, Adidas is reviving another classic, Gazelles. And they've also enlisted some major talent to help, model Kate Moss and digital artist Doug Abraham. 

Moss originally posed wearing the sneakers in 1993, but her old campaign was given a fresh twist for the reissue. Similarly, this time around, the sneakers will also get an update. "Every generation has taken the Gazelle and made it their own," Nic Galway, Adidas Originals' VP of global design told Business of Fashion. "Now we're handing over the Gazelle to the next generation. It's one of those classics of the past and very much in the culture." Watch the new campaign video below, and shop the sneakers!

Bill Cunningham Looked for Subjects. And They Looked for Him.

I took some photos of him because he just stood out so much to me.

I remember him being shy, and he would reposition himself when he spotted me trying to take a photo of him. He probably thought I was taking photos of "The Bill Cunningham," but in reality I was just doing what he was famous for: capturing candid photos of interesting people.

It wasn't until a friend saw my photos on Instagram and educated me as to who this man was. After that, I read up on his legacy and watched the documentary about his life and learned what an interesting man he was.

'I Asked the Tourists if They Knew Who Took Their Photo'

Kevin Chan in New York

Photo Kevin Chan

He's one of my inspirations as a photographer. Funny story of when I met him in October 2013 at the Central Park fall pumpkin festival. A group of tourists asked him if he would take a picture of them, not knowing who he was, but just a guy with a camera who looked like he knew how to take a photo. I asked the tourists if they knew who took their photo — one of the most legendary photographers in the world. I'm sure they'll be cherishing that photo now.

'I Promised Her Some Candy if She Stayed Still'

Regan Stephens in New York

Photo Bennett Stephens, 4. Credit Regan Stephens

Last summer I took my then-3-year-old daughter to the Ralph Lauren children's show at Central Park Zoo. I snapped a quick photo while he was working hard to capture all the impeccably dressed tots and their parents. I promised her some candy if she stayed still, and you can see from the look on her face she didn't realize she was in the presence of one of the greats.

'He Still Had Fun Taking Pictures'

Matthew Allen in New York

Photo Credit Matthew J. Allen

I saw him while I was photographing the 2015 Armory art show as an avid hobbyist. His ability to place himself perfectly, at the right moment, was instructive, to say the least. At one point, he and I momentarily crossed photographic paths in front of a mirror. He nodded in my direction when we brought our cameras down, and that nod told me that after all those years, he still had fun taking pictures.

'Briefly Sharing This City'

Kashish Das Shrestha in New York

Photo Credit Kashish Das Shrestha

As a documentary photographer from Nepal working New York Fashion Week, I always thought it was a thrill to be taking photos and to turn and realize that I was briefly sharing this city, and its streets and runways, with an icon like Bill Cunningham, who it seemed would have preferred not to be noticed at all.

'Snubbed by Bill Cunningham!'

Karen Stevenson in Berkeley, Calif.

I'd followed Bill Cunningham's photo essays for years, and was excited to see him snapping photos at the Metropolitan Opera's 2015 New Year's Eve gala. I had on a new dress, and secretly hoped he'd think I looked as elegant as I thought I did and take my picture. Eventually he did look in my direction, checked out my outfit and turned away. Snubbed by Bill Cunningham! My bruised pride notwithstanding, I remained a devoted fan.

'I Tried to Play it Cool'

A.B. Rashish in Brooklyn

When I was 19, I had a weekend job at a very chic clothing store in SoHo. This was in the 1980s. I would wear the store's clothes when I worked there. One Saturday, I took a break and was walking over to Donald Sacks for coffee. I spotted Bill Cunningham, crouched low at the corner as I made my way down the block in an olive green gabardine suit with a turned-up fur collar. I tried to play it cool, but I couldn't help cracking a smile as he snapped my picture. When he stopped shooting, he smiled right back.

'He Refused to Take a Selfie'

Lynnette Blanche in New York

Photo Credit Lynnette Blanche

I once spotted him in Central Park. Despite seeing him zip around the city all the time, I never bothered him. This time, I had to get a picture. I begged him for a selfie. He was quick to decline and let me know he hated them! But, being the polite man that he was, he graciously allowed me to take his picture. He gave me one shot. I wish it was better, but I'm so glad I have it. He had the best smile.

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Sunday, June 26, 2016

8 Amazing Outfit Ideas From Our Readers Across the Country

As you've probably gathered by now, one of our favorite parts of launching the Who What Wear collection has been seeing how our readers style their favorite pieces from the line. Not only do these outfits get more amazing each month, they also continue to inspire the next season's collection. Seeing how our readers pair pieces together and accessorize their looks spurs new ideas for our future releases, and we couldn't be more thankful! Below, see eight enviable #MyWhoWhatWear outfits our readers shared on social media in June.

The Anti-Power Couple: Duro Olowu and Thelma Golden

Yet unlike, say, the artists Rachel Feinstein and John Currin, or Kim Kardashian and Kanye West, it is not a power they wield easily, or even willingly.

Mr. Olowu spends the better part of every month in London, where his studio and store are; Ms. Golden lives in New York. They refuse to give joint interviews to journalists, including this one, and despite numerous offers, they have never been officially photographed together for the glossy magazines desperate to get them into their pages.

They do appear side by side at benefits and other high-profile events, including the state dinner in 2014 in honor of President François Hollande of France, where Ms. Golden was seated on President Obama's left. But it was not until June 18 that they collaborated publicly for the first time.

Slide Show Duro Olowu's Third Art Show

CreditLeonce Raphael Agbodjelou, via Jack Bell Gallery

The occasion was a question-and-answer session at a packed preview of "Making & Unmaking" for several dozen friends and members of the media, fashion and art communities. According to Mr. Olowu, it had been Ms. Golden's idea to interview him for the talk: "She just said, 'Why not?'"

Ms. Golden, wearing one of her husband's signature patchwork-print dresses and black peep-toe ankle boots, began by disclosing that in the many months her husband had worked to put his latest exhibition together, he had not once spoken to her about it, and she had seen it for the first time only the day before.

"You are all witnessing the first conversation," she said confidentially.

Later by phone, Ms. Hastreiter observed: "Thelma is a strong woman, and Duro loves that about her. They're not attached at the hip. They work like crazy, and they're really passionate about what they do, and respect each other's careers and love each other. They don't just go to parties and pose for things."

Indeed, they were not posing back in Camden; their onstage interview was like what any other two prominent members of the art community might hold on stage, albeit with a bit more teasing and affection.

Mr. Olowu discussed his early fascination with textiles as a child in Lagos, and with the idea of "something that is made flat coming to life" when draped on the body. His approach to curating is similar to putting together a fashion collection, he said, of assembling disparate elements and trying "to create harmony between all" of them.

The talk did, at times, veer into the personal, particularly when the floor opened up to audience questions. When asked what it was like to "live with a ho arder," Ms. Golden said that when she and Mr. Olowu first began dating, she occupied an apartment with bare walls.

By now, she has learned to live among his ever-expanding collection of art, fabric and furniture, and like good Americans, they have bowed to the necessity of a storage unit. ("I'm not a hoarder, but I can't resist a good thing," Mr. Olowu conceded.)

She revealed that she often encourages him to photograph the things he collects because he has a habit of forgetting and buying them again. They both laughed.

"They're the kind of people that when you walk into the room, you don't know who to go to first," said the retailer Ikram Goldman, who has known them since they first met. "They're individuals in their own right, but together they create this incredible unit that you gravitate to. They ground each other."

Mr. Olowu did not always keep his personal and professional lives so separate. The designer, who trained as a lawyer in London, did not begin his fashion career until age 30, opening a small shop in Notting Hill with his first wife, Elaine Golding, a shoe designer, in the late '90s.

They opened their doors with two styles of shoes and two styles of dresses, which Mr. Olowu designed and which sold the first day. When Mr. Olowu and his wife later separated, he set out on his own, unveiling his namesake label in late 2004 and winning the British Fash ion Council's New Designer of the Year award in 2005. Since then, he has released a collaboration with the jeweler Sidney Garber and designed a line for J.C. Penney.

One may think that the earlier intermingling of Mr. Olowu's professional and personal lives may have prompted his and Ms. Golden's decision to keep theirs apart, but he says that is not the case.

"We're just very sociable, and we don't have the time, really," he said. "I respect what she does, and the museum and her passion, her love of art, her enthusiasm for everything. I don't need to say, 'Now I need this amount of your time.' But she's very supportive of what I do."

She practically refuses to wear anything besides the clothes he has designed, he said, "even though I say, please."

That decision to be supportive, rather than collaborative, is at least partly responsible for preserving the spontaneous quality of Mr. Olowu's curatorial projects. There is a striking similarity between the layout of his treasure attic of a store in Mayfair and each of his exhibitions , with panels of vintage fabric forming a background to the paintings and photographs on display.

In Camden, there are more than 60 artists included in the show — an unusually high proportion of them women — spanning a multitude of media, including painting (Dorothea Tanning, Alice Neel), photography (Irving Penn, Claude Cahun), sculpture (Wangechi Mutu, Sheila Hicks), weaving (Anni Albers, and West African textiles from Mr. Olowu's personal collection) and collage (the 25-year-old fashion designer Grace Wales Bonner, recent winner of the LVMH prize for emerging talent, has a piece on display for the first time).

What unites them is a sense of pattern, repetition and a human touch, or what Mr. Olowu descri bes as the "process of personal ritual that an artist goes through, which is like the act of weaving."

Jenni Lomax, the museum's director, offered Mr. Olowu the space after attending his talk with Mr. Ligon at the Tate Modern last year, where the two discussed not Mr. Ligon's art, but their mutual passion for textiles.

"It's very intuitive," Ms. Lomax says of his approach. "He didn't do research or careful planning, and he seemed to be unhindered by historical or anything that would perhaps be expected from a curator. It's working almost like an artist, with bits and pieces, imagining how it would all come together in his mind."

Still, he doesn't think of himself as a curator, not yet. He leaves that to his wife.

"In the end, it's safe for me to think that I'm a designer who curates," Mr. Olowu said. "This is an institutional show, but I'm not institutional, I don't have an institutional background. Because I'm not part of the art world, because I came through this as a lover of art, I'm free, I really am."

After the talk, Mr. Olowu held the door as guests poured into the first of the rooms containing the assembled works, while Ms. Golden receded to the back rooms, greeted at turns by acquaintances. It was now Mr. Olowu's show.

"Making & Unmaking" is on view at the Camden Arts Center until Sept. 18.

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Saturday, June 25, 2016

10 Celebrity-Inspired Tracksuits to Buy Now

While we keep an eye on every celebrity-approved trend, when we come across one that's as comfortable as it is chic, we can't help but give it a little extra attention. Today's topic—the tracksuit—undoubtedly falls into this category. Thanks to brands like ChloĂ©, Vetements, Gucci and more, not only are the likes of Rihanna, Kendall Jenner, and Selena Gomez endorsing the look, but they're also taking the guesswork out of styling. The once-forgotten tracksuit is so versatile that you can wear one anywhere, from the airport to a party.

See how our favorite It girls are wearing them; then shop our picks below!  

A Literary Bromance, Now in Its Sixth Decade

"Without Lawrence Ferlinghetti, there wouldn't have been a Beat Generation at all," said Bill Morgan, a literary scholar and an expert on the Beats. "He published all of these people who would never have been heard of."

In some ways, Mr. Ferlinghetti and Mr. Lord make unlikely partners. Apart from their shared connection to the Beats, they never really ran in overlapping cultural circles.

Photo The literary agent Sterling Lord, shown in 2013, who pushed his friend, the poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti, to write his coming-of-age story for nearly two decades. Credit Mary Altaffer/Associated Press

Mr. Lord, who favors tweed jackets, sweater vests and sharp ties, is a tenacious salesman whose star-studded client list included the former Secretary of Defense Robert McNamara and the newspaper columnist Jimmy Breslin. He became famous for wringing fat advances from publishers, with an extremely diplomatic touch. (He titled his 2013 memoir "Lord of Publishing.")

Mr. Ferlinghetti, a bohemian rebel who has a jeweled stud in his ear, has long occupied a place on the cultural and political fringes, even as he became one of the country's most popular and influential poets. His fervent fan base includes Bob Dylan, Patti Smith, Francis Ford Coppola and the poet Billy Collins.

"Sterling is an old-fashioned gentleman, and Lawrence is really an anarchist," Mr. Morgan said. "You could say that one of them is working within the establishment, and one is working against it."

Sometimes, Mr. Ferlinghetti and Mr. Lord clashed when they found themselves on opposite ends of the negotiating table as publisher and agent. In a letter to Ginsberg in 1970, Mr. Ferlinghetti complained that Mr. Lord often snubbed him in favor of bigger publishers: "I've written Sterling Lord since Jack's death, asking of 'Visions of Neal' and 'Some of the Dharma' but I never get the time of night from him – like we're not worth his trouble for the big money, etc. Maybe you could tell him we complained and push him."

At other times, Mr. Ferlinghetti had the upper hand. He once turned down a manuscript that Mr. Lord sent him because it was too disjointed. (It was a messy early draft of William S. Burroughs's "Naked Lunch.") "I am extremely doubtful, from what I've read so far, that any bookseller would dare sell it in his store," Mr. Ferlinghetti wrote to Ginsberg.

For roughly three decades, Mr. Ferlinghetti managed his own career without help from a literary agent, which suited his rebellious streak. He did fine on his own. "Most agents can't be bothered with poets because they never bring in any money," he said.

But in the 1980s, he struggled to find a publisher for his debut novel, "Love in the Days of Rage," after it was rejected by New Directions. He called Mr. Lord, who quickly sold the book to Dutton. They've worked together ever since.

"He admired what he knew about me, and I admired what I knew about him," Mr. Lord said. "He� ��s absolutely unique in the world of publishing."

Any perceived slights or old rivalries from decades ago seem to be forgotten. (Mr. Lord seemed full of affection even when he noted casually that one of his ex-wives was "kind of in love" with Mr. Ferlinghetti, adding, "I can understand any intelligent woman having a crush on Lawrence.")

Both men attribute the longevity of their lives and careers partly to the fact that they weren't as wild as the Beat writers they championed. Mr. Lord, who cycled through four marriages, hung around with many of the rebellious, semi-feral writers he represented, but he was always the straight man. He never even smoked cigarettes, at least not in the last half-century. "I did smoke a little, in my 30s," he said. "But I didn't inhale."

Photo Lawrence Ferlinghetti at his City Lights book store in San Francisco, which he co-founded in 1953. Credit Nat Farbman/Time Life Pictures, via Getty Images

Mr. Lord often found himself in the role of babysitter. Once, when he visited Kerouac in St. Petersburg, Fla., he gamely joined him on a bar crawl, but only drank a few beers, while Kerouac downed rounds of double scotches and chased them with beers.

During a visit to Kesey's farm in Eugene, Ore., Mr. Lord rode in Further, the infamous bus that ferried Kesey and his band of tripping Merry Pranksters back and forth across the country. But Mr. Lord's joy ride was a relatively uneventful, acid-free trip: Kesey just drove him to the airport.

Mr. Ferlinghetti was also pretty tame, by the hedonistic standards of the era. He smoked the occasional joint and experimented with LSD, but never got too crazy. He rememb ers peeling Kerouac off the ground in front of his cabin in Big Sur early one morning, after Kerouac went on one of his benders while visiting him there. (The visit wasn't entirely fruitless: Kerouac wrote his novel, "Big Sur," which features a character based on Mr. Ferlinghetti, at the cabin).

While his vagabond Beat cohorts were taking mescaline and Benzedrine-fueled road trips across the country, Mr. Ferlinghetti was married and running two businesses: his bookstore, which he co-founded in 1953, and his publishing house, which he created in 1955. On top of that, he had his own creative pursuits.

"I had too much to do," Mr. Ferlinghetti said. "I was more interested in developing my own painting and writing."

And though he's often lumped with the Beats, Mr. Ferlinghetti rejected the label. "I got associated with the Beats by publishing them, but my own poetry has never been Beat," he said.

As they approach 100, neither of them has slowed down all that much. Most days, Mr. Lord, who gets around nimbly with a walker, still works at Sterling Lord Literistic, the literary agency he founded in 1952 after being fired from his job as a Cosmopolitan editor. He often works six or seven days a week. He reads submissions and drafts with the help of a magnifying machine, and conducts most of his business face to face or by phone.

"It's a little bit like having Maxwell Perkins call you," Barbara Epler, president of New Directions, said, comparing Mr. Lord to the legendary editor of F. Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway.

Mr. Ferlinghetti, who suffers from glaucoma, still paints in his art studio at Hunters Point once or twice a week, though because of his deteriorating eyesight he's limited himself to black-and-white abstracts. In July, his paintings will be featured in a solo exhibition at the Rena Bransten gallery in San Francisco.

He stopped riding his bicycle around North Beach after taking a spill a few years ago, but remains an intrepid trave ler. He spent two weeks in Paris last year, and visited the Pacific Coast of Mexico this January, where he spent a week on the beach, writing in his notebooks by day and drinking margaritas at night.

"He's still very much engaged with the world," said Elaine Katzenberger, the executive director of City Lights Booksellers & Publishers. "It's just who he is."

Mr. Ferlinghetti's presence is still palpable at City Lights, one of the last countercultural outposts in a rapidly gentrifying city. His deep, raspy voice is on the bookstore's answering machine. His handpainted signs adorn the store's walls and windows, with slogans he coined like, "Stash Your Sell Phone and Be Here Now!" and "Books Are Trees Made Immortal."

Upstairs, in the small three-room headquarters of the publishing house, Mr. Ferlinghetti keeps a small, tidy office with an old roll-t op wooden desk.

Though he retired from running the press many years ago, he still makes suggestions about potential acquisitions and poetry translation projects.

Last year, Mr. Ferlinghetti released a flurry of books. He published a compilation of his travel journals titled "Writing Across the Landscape," a collection of his correspondence with Ginsberg, a 60th anniversary edition of the City Lights Pocket Poets Anthology, with a new introduction he wrote.

And in a sly prank that no one seems to have been up on, he also published a new volume of his poetry, titled "Shards," with New Directions, which he passed off as a translation of verses by a 14th-century Roman poet named Lorenzo Chiera (English translation: Who Was Lawrence).

Most days, he works in his home office, a ramshackle room teeming with books and notebooks full of his sketches and writing, in a second floor rent-controlled apartment where he's lived for more than 30 years.

He has a computer that he mostly uses to send emails, and a magnifying machine that helps him read the newspaper. His desk is surrounded by dictionaries in English, Spanish, French and Italian, and bookshelves with volumes of poetry by E. E. Cummings, Milton, Ezra Pound, Ted Hughes, T. S. Eliot and Frank O'Hara. A wicker chair held a thick stack of unpublished poems, typed up with hand-scrawled edits.

"At my age, I might not publish another book of poetry," he said. "But there's lots to be published."

For now, Mr. Ferlinghetti is focused on his new novel, which Mr. Lord is shopping around to publishers. Part of the narrative draws on his coming-of-age as a young man in Europe and his tumultuous childhood: His father died before he was born, and he lived in an orphanage for a while after his mother was institutionalized.

Mr. Ferlinghetti and Mr. Lord have been talking on the phone over the past few months, dis cussing ways to shape the story. Mr. Ferlinghetti has pushed back on some of his agent's suggestions. But Mr. Lord is, as ever, optimistic.

"The book is not a conventional autobiography in any sense of the word, but you get to know Lawrence quite a bit by reading this material," Mr. Lord said. "We're describing it as 'scenes from his autobiography.'"

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Friday, June 24, 2016

Why I Think First-Date Outfits Are Overrated

Google "first-date outfit" and you'll find over 4 million results weighing in on the subject, from expert opinions on what to wear to style mistakes to avoid at all costs. While the intentions are nice—help us score romantic points, sartorially—the reality is that these strict guidelines negate our individual personalities, sweeping our style quirks under the rug as if to say, Who you really are won't do—try this on for size instead.

Not to mention the fact that never in the history of the world has a healthy, long-lasting relationship been formed by people hiding their true colors in lieu of something more palatable and, perhaps, mainstream (correct me if I'm wrong). So, while it may seem innocent enough, caving to outside opinions on the dos and don'ts of first-date wear that don't necessarily align with your style is really just an effort in convincing your partner to fall for someone you're not. What's more, it's an act of self-flagellation, a way of reinforcing that your inclination toward wide-leg culottes or jeans and a vintage tee renders you somehow less than dateable.

Opt for a little black dress; pair jeans with heels; show some skin; don't wear anything too trendy—the list goes on.

I wholeheartedly reject these rules, as they feel both anti-feminist and anti-fun, quashing personal style quirks and the freedom that comes with fashion for the seemingly noble cause of romance. To that, I say nah—real connection transcends such frivolities, but can also only happen between two authentic parties (wearing what they like when they like).

Having occasionally caved to these rules myself, I also know the discomfort they bring, contributing to nerves and that audition-like feeling that first dates so often hold. Like me for who I'm only pretending to be, these looks seem to shout, followed by an inner monologue of Ohmigod why did I wear this? I'm so uncomfortable. Instead of paying attention to the person in front of me, I find myself expending way too much energy on the components of my outfit, wishing I could run back home and change into something more "me."

When I forgo the rulebook, though, I feel my confidence rise—it's that self-assuredness via style that drew me to fashion in the first place. Proudly wearing what I like to wear, even if it's considered too casual or unsexy for a first date, reminds me to be proud of who I am and to look for someone who likes that person, not say, a sparklier, magazine-worthier version.

Scroll down to shop some of my quirky and comfortable first-date outfit picks…

Vows: A Healing Couple, Leading With Their Hearts

Despite her success, she is without pretense, Dr. Clapp said: "She is the same person everywhere she goes."

Dr. Keith's father was a Tuskegee Airman (World War II ended before he could actually enter the fight) who went on to Harvard Medical School and did his pediatric residency at Boston Children's Hospital before moving his family to Chicago.

Dr. Gayle had met Dr. Keith in 1979, at the Student National Medical Association Conference in Los Angeles. She was a medical student at the University of Pennsylva nia, and he was a resident at U.C.L.A.

Dr. Gayle, now 60, recalled thinking of him then as a "kind, slightly older guy." "He was in his residency and treated little old me in a very kind way," she said. "So he stood out."

Dr. Keith, who at 63 resembles an older version of the former professional tennis player James Blake, recalled her then as bright, eager and attractive.

Both doctors received degrees in pediatrics and public health. Dr. Keith soon had two daughters from his first marriage.

By the late 1980s, Dr. Keith had begun to see more of Dr. Gayle in his role as an aide to Senator Kennedy, working toward passage of the Ryan White act, which improved care for patients with H.I.V./AIDS. But even when Dr. Keith found himself single again in 1987, no romance ensued between the two.

"We actually would see each other here in D.C.," he said. "She was at the Centers for Disease Control, and I would have to go down to Atlanta. And then in the early 1990s, she headed up the D.C. office for the C.D.C., and we intersected. But it was collegial. I just didn't see it."

He remarried in the early 1990s, and had a son.

Their mutual passion for addressing H.I.V./AIDS and what Dr. Gayle calls the social justice imperative of helping marginalized populations deepened their friendship. Dr. Keith's professional purpose was undergirded by a personal one: His sister, Julie Keith Jarrett, died in 1994 of AIDS, and she left behind a husband and a daughter.

About five years ago, his second marriage began to unravel.

By the fall of 2011, he was working as chief executive of the American College of Clinical Pharmacology, and she was the chief executive of CARE in Atlanta. The gap between their dinners had stretched longer than in the past, and their conspicuous absence had made him wonder if it was something more than just conversation that he was missing, if a missed opportunity might not yet be a lost one. So he made that life-changing call to Dr. Gayle.

"I had always known she was a wonderful person, beautiful, caring for other people," he said. "I said she has been here this whole time. And I just didn't see it, and I will try to make up for lost time. I will try to do it right."

Dr. Gayle recalled the phone conversation: "He said, 'We haven't talked for a while.' I kind of had a suspicion, that it was potentially about us."

In town for her nephew's wedding, she agreed to meet up at Jackie's Restaurant in Silver Spring, Md.

Dr. Keith tried to play it cool. "I did not say to her, 'This is the start of something serious' on the first date," he said. "I really enjoyed the time, but in my mind I knew this was it. I knew I didn't want to focus anywhere else."

For Dr. Gayle's part, too, something sparked during that dinner that was 30 years in the making. "I looked at him differently," she said. "I remembered how handsome I thought he was. I remembered how much fun we had in each other's company, and it just unshackles someone from a particular box and you start seeing them in a different way."

She had also recently ended a long relationship, and was winding down her role at CARE. (She is now C.E.O. of the McKinsey Social Initiative.)

"I think my head made room for my heart to take over," Dr. Gayle said, thinking back to the early days of their courtship. "I remember being at a dinne r with friends, not long after we started dating, and he was just staring at me as I talked with this warm, loving look in his eyes. I was blown away. I am not sure I had ever had anyone look at me like that."

Dr. Reed Tuckson, a longtime friend of both, said he was struck by how deeply Dr. Keith had fallen for her, noting that he usually kept his emotions well hidden. "You'd have to sort of push Steve," Dr. Tuckson said. "If Steve tells you his arm is sore, you have to see if he has an arm. It was a real surprise when he started talking about Helene. I said, 'You are talking about our sister, man!'"

Things began to move quickly. In February 2012, Dr. Keith moved in with Dr. Gayle in Atlanta, and took a job with a medical firm there. (He is now chief executive with Vivacelle Bio, a biotech company.)

That summer, he joined her in Chautauqua, N.Y., where Dr. Gayle's enormous extended family has assembled for generations. Alana Gayle, Helene's older sister, said that her granddaughter had immediately proclaimed Dr. Keith her favorite uncle, a good sign of permanence.

"It was like he had always been here," Alana Gayle said.

There Dr. Keith saw Dr. Gayle as her family does: as Aunt Helene, just happy to cook and pick up the rental bikes. He loved that she was as comfortable in that space as she was sparring with world leaders over public health crises.

The question of marria ge, though, was one that Dr. Gayle had to work out for herself. "It's easy to be intellectual about this," she said. "Is it an equal institution for women as it is for men? Is it going to change my life and my life options? Does it indicate I need someone to complete me as a human being?"

Even after letting emotion rule the day, she was able to supply a fairly thoughtful rationale for matrimony. "There is something about the act that a public commitment does make a bond that is different and special and creates a level of intimacy that — not that you necessarily need marriage for it — but probably is facilitated by marriage," she said.

In June 2015, Dr. Keith proposed. She was speechless at first. They kissed. Then he asked, "Does that mean yes?" Dr. Gayle said it did.

On June 4, the couple were married at Christ United Methodist Church in Washington. Dr. Tuckson served as best man; Dr. Clapp was maid of honor.

Standing on the dais, Dr. Keith said to Dr. Gayle: "Falling in love with you was easy and exciting, comforting and powerful. Having waited much too long for this day, I am proud to now become your husband and for you to become my wife."

In her vows, she quoted from the book "Americanah" by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie: "He made her feel like herself. With him, she was at ease: her skin felt as though it was her right size."

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Thursday, June 23, 2016

How Much Is Okay to Ask Your Bridesmaids to Pay for Dresses?

It's time to discuss a very hot topic that most women have or will have to deal with at some point in their lives: The cost of being a bridesmaid and what to expect from your bridesmaids if you're the bride.

Undoubtedly, it's an honor to be a part of a wedding party, but with average expenses totaling $1178–$1466 in this day and age, it's become a major financial obligation. So we thought we'd join in on the very relevant conversation by reaching out to a handful of experts on the subject. From a major bridal retailer to a dress designer to a wedding blogger, there was a clear consensus: The bride should be respectful of each of her bridesmaid's financial situation and should make it an open conversation with her friends when deciding on a dress.

While some opinions were more specific than others, every expert's insight is sure to prepare both current and future bridesmaids for the toll that participating in a wedding will take on their bank accounts, and brides for what to expect from their friends.

Keep scrolling to hear the expert's opinions on the subject for yourself and shop bridesmaid dresses within the recommended price points.

Shawn Colvin and Steve Earle: Two Old Pals on the Road Together

The very, very dark place I was in, I remember walking down Murfreesboro Road in Nashville and seeing people I knew across the street. I was worried about trying to stay to one side so they wouldn't recognize me. Then I got to a gas station and looked at myself in a mirror, and I realized my front teeth were missing. I had dreadlocks out to here, so there was no way anybody would have known who I was.

Photo Mr. Earle performing in New York in 1996. Credit Adam Nadel/Associated Press

The two glimmers of hope during that time were that Emmylou Harris recorded "Guitar Town" and you recorded "Someday." It sort of made me feel like what I'd done meant something.

I think the second time you and I saw each other was at the Telluride Bluegrass Festival in 1996. I was clean by then. I was with the Train band, and you were running around stealing other people's babies. You had the worst case of baby-itis I'd ever seen. By the time I opened for you at Wolf Trap a couple of years later, your husband was about 10 paces behind you pushing a stroller.

SC: Callie was born in 1998, when I was 42. I raised my daughter in a great place, but it's duller. I miss New York a lot.

SE: I need the input to keep doing this job. I don't understand people who wear earbuds on the subway, man. You're missing the songs.

I think Shawn and I both knew there was something really similar in where we were coming from as performers. But I didn't know until you told me on the last tour, in 2014, that you were in the program. I hadn't read your book.

SC: When I became sober, I was 27 and struggling as an artist. As a kid, I was depressed and riddled with anxiety. The bottom dropped out when I was 19. I was given an antidepressant, and it really helped. But then, as many depressives do, I went, "I don't need this," and I went off the drugs. So the depression and anxiety returned, and I learned to medicate myself with beer and wine. I was very controlled: I was getting drunk, but I was totally under the radar. But I had suicidal hangovers that were about to take me down, so I knew I had to quit.

I remember when I was first getting sober, part of the mind-set of an addict is that there's shame and self-loathing. And somebody said, "Treat yourself like a sick person." That helped me so much. It was like, "Oh, I don't have to own this emotional baggage, I've been sick."

Photo Ms. Colvin in 1998 with her Grammy Awards for record of the year and song of the year. Credit Richard Drew/Associated Press

SE: Give yourself a break, it's an illness.

SC: That's right, it's an illness.

SE: I make meetings on the road. I have to. Shawn does phone meetings.

SC: I have a sense of safety with you because there's a shared experience. I'm together in a lot of ways but partnering up with another individual and being able to share a living space and work through whatever comes up — it's my Achilles' heel. It's a combination of probably picking people that aren't right for me and a lot of mistrust. So that fuels a lot of songs.

SE: I got married a lot in the '80s. There were a lot of drugs involved in that. I thought I was supposed to be monogamous and that marriage would be idyllic. But I'd get out on the road and look up and I'd have a lot of girlfriends and be in love with all of them.

My therapist says I consistently choose women that I couldn't possibly have a successful relationship with because I really want to be alone. I'm starting to believe her.

Shawn's a more introspective writer than I am. I'm always writing about me and I'm not scared of giving it up, but I just tend to do it using language that's more prose than poetry. I'm as much influenced by Joseph Mitchell and storytellers that I use d to hunt and fish with, my grandfather and my uncles, as I am other songwriters.

SC: My music is basically perceived as folk or softer rock. But Steve's has an edge, which I've always been attracted to.

SE: Shawn does what I do, and she did it literally backward and in heels. That's not nothing, being a woman making art and having to protect it in a male-dominated business.

SC: It was a beauty contest in the '80s. If they played two women back to back on the radio, it was almost a scandal. I have a lot of women who are my heroes because of the same issues. But I don't dwell on that.

There was a trajectory where "Sunn y" was a big hit. That was not sustained, but I was never a hit artist to begin with. So that didn't bother me. I don't care if I sell out big concert halls. I have no desire to do that.

I won the Grammy for "Sunny" when I was 40 years old and had made four records, so there was a sense of having paid my dues. When Ol' Dirty Bastard stormed the stage [arguing that his group, Wu-Tang Clan, should have won the award in another category], it was confusing. You're in the moment, and someone has taken over the podium. You just wait for it to play out. I don't hold a grudge. The next day, I got a fax and flowers from him, and I saved the note.

When Steve suggested during our last tour that we make a record together, I listened only halfheartedly because to bring two artists together and deal with their schedules, especially because Steve never co-wrote, it doesn't happen.

SE: The way we played together and our voices sounded together, I thought that as a songwriter I'd want to write for that group. Shawn is more like me artistically than anyone I know. What comes naturally to us is to just stand up in front of an audience with an acoustic guitar, and there's nothing harder to do.

SC: I envy Steve because I'm a reluctant writer. I say I'm afraid of writing songs, Steve says he's afraid not to. He's just got that drive. I could use more of that, because it compromises one's creativity a bit to become a single parent and to endure the rigors of the road.

SE: I've done the parenting stage that Shawn is doing, so we can't help but talk about it. Sometimes we don't want to talk about it, but that's something we have in common.

SC: You said something about teenagers being crazy. And that they're going to turn out the way they're going to turn out.

SE: I ran away from home when I was 15. So what was I going to tell Justin: Don't drop out of school and play music for a living? I was also absent a lot. Sometimes I was absent when I was home because I was an addict. And it was not lost on my two older boys how much better a parent I am to John Henry.

SC: I was gone a lot, too. I don't know about Steve, but I feel guilty about it.

SE: I do, too. The thing I feel the most guilty about is tha t there was no way I was going to quit. Justin was raised until he was 3 on food stamps and government cheese. And if "Guitar Town" hadn't happened, I would have kept doing this whether I made any money or not.

SC: I did stay home when Callie was going full on into puberty. But I paid a price for not working as much. I've just had to reconcile that this is my job and this is her lot. You know, it's painful. It's the same as getting divorced.

SE: I was going through a divorce the first time we toured together.

SC: I was a witness to it because we were on the road and you were taking calls from lawyers and your wife and trying to hold down the fort by being in touch with John Henry. I felt for you because everybody goes crazy during divorce.

SE: You end up hating your lawyers as much as you hate their lawyers. Did I tell you about driving around with my lawyer in a convertible in Williamson County when I was going through one of the divorces? Her lawyer called and he pumped up his chest, you know, and made a bunch of threats, and we're riding along smoking a joint and at the end of the call they make an appointment to play golf. That� ��s when I realized I was [expletive].

SC: I'd say I'm over guys. I'm not lonely, my life is really full. But I do feel invisible sometimes.

SE: We did talk about that. You said you felt invisible to men.

SC: In terms of guys at the coffee shop — you just say a friendly "hello" and some of them look right through you.

SE: Do you remember what I said when you said you felt invisible to men?

SC: I never remember anything.

SE: I said you're not invisible to me.

SC: Awwww.

SE: I get it. I know what you mean. I haven't given up on girls, but at this point, I'm grateful to just have a career, and I think Shawn is grateful, too.

SC: I'm happy that I still have a job. We've both been doing this for 40 years, and it's a lot of fun. Living well is the best revenge. Writing well is the best revenge. Working well is the best revenge.

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Wednesday, June 22, 2016

Career Code: This Is How to Make It as a Jewelry Designer

In honor of Hillary Kerr and Katherine Power's new book, The Career Code: Must-Know Rules for a Strategic, Stylish, and Self-Made Career ($17), we're running an interview series featuring 17 questions (in honor of the book's 17 chapters) about the work lives of the most inspirational female leaders in the fashion industry. So far, we've tapped Rebecca Minkoff, Sally Singer, Rachel Zoe, and more. Up next? Jennifer Fisher.

If a piece of jewelry catches your eye while you're flipping through the pages of Vogue or thumbing through a fashion blogger's Instagram feed, there's a good chance the bauble was designed by Jennifer Fisher. The jewelry veteran's eponymous brand recently celebrated its 10th anniversary, racking up countless well-dressed fans in the process. (Gigi Hadid, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Selena Gomez are among her celebrity admirers.)

Industry experts have also given Fisher high praise: She was a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist in 2012 and nominated for the CFDA Swarovski Accessories Award in 2014. Given her monumental success, we couldn't think of anyone better suited to dishing out career advice.

Read on to meet Hollywood's go-to jewelry designer, Jennifer Fisher!

On a Fashion Journey With Gucci, Prada, Missoni and Armani

Travel, as others have pointed out, has been a leitmotif throughout the Milan men's wear season. And while this is probably not the place for cranky opprobrium, it feels necessary to call out the obliviousness of designers who presented collections rife with references to campsites, tarpaulins, tents and displacement when millions of Syrian and Afghan refugees crowd Europe's borders or wash up dead on its shores.

Photo Prada, spring 2017. Credit Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

Naturally there is a temptation is to sit back and enjoy the spectacle when Thom Browne stages one of his usual displays for Moncler Gamme Bleu (a subsidiary line of the puffer giant Moncler, founded in 1952 and reinvented five decades later by Remo Ruffini as a fashion concern) in a glamping show rife with references to scouting and Smokey Bear.

What is the harm? Mr. Browne is a skilled entertainer, albeit one occasionally in need of a dramaturge. As with past collections, the tableaux vivant devised here ended without plot resolution.

In a bunkerlike show space on the edge of town, Mr. Browne laid sod, installed mature fir trees, piped in the sounds of crickets and birds. He erected 40 translucent pup tents in four parallel rows and then had his models march out in hooded floor-length coats that were half sleeping bag, half cagoule jacket.

One by one the guys installed themselves before their bivouacs. Soon two mascot bears appeared, stopping by turns to help the models wriggle out of their bag-coats, revealing beneath them suits with short pants that formed the collection's core.

Photo Missoni, spring 2017. Credit Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

Some were in blanket plaid. Some were channel quilted. Some were in techno fabrics. Some had sequins and several were constructed using astrakhan, the fleece of newborn or fetal lambs. (Memo to PETA: Don't blame the messenger.)

Most were worn with knee socks and either safari or field jackets, all adorned with so many bellows-pockets you'd need a compass to find your keys. Once revealed, the models paraded around the space, dragging their cloaks behind them before returning to their tents and, unfurling the bags, bedding down inside.

That was it. The show ended. The audience filed out. And as they did, some wondered what may become of those tents. "Exaggerated utility," was his theme, Mr. Browne said later. Given recent events in Europe, the phrase struck an unwittingly callous tone.

Miuccia Prada, too, seemed to take up travel as a thematic for a show that cast models as vagabonds, dressing them for the road in skinny cycling pants or chunky sweaters or nylon blousons, burdening their scrawny frames with bulging rucksacks (Prada's first commercial success, in 1984, was a nylon backpack) from which brogues were hung hobo-style.

Photo Giorgio Armani, spring 2017. Credit Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

That many of the clothes had been printed with random motifs like watermelons, sombreros or the Buddha suggested Ms. Prada has more in common with a designer like Mr. Michele than you may imagine. Is there anyone left whose creative process is not influenced by the mysterious algorithms of Google Image? Probably not.

The imaginative set for Prada — by AMO, a research arm of the Dutch architecture studio OMA — recast the interior of Prada's space as a series of raked ramps constructed from structural metal mesh. Entering under eerie green light, and with FrĂ©dĂ©ric Sanchez' distorted remix of Bjork's "Army of Me" as an aural backdrop, the models climbed ever uphill toward some unseen vanishing point.

As at Moncler Gamme Bleu, exaggerated utility was Prada's tacit through-line. And as at Moncler Gamme Bleu, the show provoked questions that even a designer of Ms. Prada's sure intelligence seems unprepared to answer.

The sunniness of Angela Missoni's relationship to travel is not easy to square with her personal experience of its perils. It was just three years ago last January that a chartered plane carrying her brother Vittorio, 58, his wife and four others (including a pilot and co-pilot) vanished as it left the Caribbean archipelago of Los Roques. The loss was devastating for a family whose eponymous label Mr. Missoni ran with his siblings.

Yet there on Sunday, almost exactly on the anniversary of the discovery of the wreck and the identification of the bodies, Ms. Missoni mounted a show that harks back to travel in happier times. "We went on a family trip to Guatemala when I was 15," Ms. Missoni said backstage. "And I never forgot it."

A jacket she bought on that trip was the point of departure for a collection that used Missoni's signature knitwear patterns for shorts and cropped trousers, tracksuit tops and shirts, relaxed suiting, Breton-striped undershirts and roomy jackets embroidered with toucans. The woven leather Malibu hippie sandals had closed toes. Cuban heeled boots were transformed into sling-backs.

Many of the models in what was by far the most racially diverse casting of recent memory wore straw jibaro hats more characteristic of Cuba or Puerto Rico than Central America, but no matter. Even with rain falling in the loggia of the university courtyard where the show was held, the mood was celebratory, even redemptive.

Giorgio Armani also alluded to travel in his show on Monday, largely into his own back pages. Mr. Armani, undisputed king of Italian fashion, surveys a realm that — however remote it may occasionally seem from developments in contemporary design — sooner or later must acknowledge him.

It is not rote obeisance. Mr. Armani laid down the codes other designers flout. He devised si lhouettes many decades ago that have sustained him, snapshots from a long and memorable journey.

If there was little novelty in a collection that offered variations on his customary snug knit jackets and tunics, worn over voluminous bottom-hugging linen trousers as feminizing as anything Alessandro Michele ever created, the collection served to remind viewers that the past is also, for some, a destination. The future is, of course, uncertain.

The present, at the moment, is in certain ways a pretty ugly place.

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Tuesday, June 21, 2016

Forever 21 Is Most Popular in These States

We all love Forever 21 for its affordable, on-trend, and ever-changing offering. But where is this go-to retailer most popular? Refinery29 asked research company Social Context Lab to look at social platforms and online forums to pull data on the most popular stores across the country by state. Where did F21 fall on the list? The biggest fans are located in Kansas, Maryland, Michigan, New Hampshire, Utah, and Florida. 

Check out more on the top 10 stores in the country here—and keep scrolling to shop some of our favorite finds at Forever 21 right now. 

Fashion Diary: In Milan, a Dinner Party for 300 of Prada’s Closest Friends

Photo Willem Dafoe and his wife, the film director Giada Colagrande, at the Prada party in Milan, with the actress Valeria Golino in the background. Credit Alessandro Grassani for The New York Times

MILAN — Is there any place quieter than Milan on a summer Sunday? The sidewalks have been rolled up since Friday, when anyone who can afford it took off for the weekend to some country place beside one of Lombardy's jewel-like lakes or, perhaps, an old painted house in the Engadine Valley of Switzerland. It takes more to lure those people back to the city than some potato chips in a bowl and a bottle of budget rosĂ©.

Knowing this, Miuccia Prada and her husband, Patrizio Bertelli, Prada's chief executive, sent invitations weeks ago to what was characterized as a small private dinner, to be held at the couple's foundation on Milan's perimeter, and then mobilized the forces of their multibillion-dollar fashion empire to populate that dinner with the most prominent citizens of town: fat cats, plutocrats, high-level bureaucrats and, of course, the aristocrats whose family names grace streets and buildings throughout this ancient capital of the north.

Photo Jessica Chastain at the Prada Foundation, where the dinner was held. Credit Alessandro Grassani for The New York Times

Thus on a beautiful summer evening, the de Chirico-esque plaza within the walled Prada Foundation compound — on the grounds of a former brandy distillery — resembled the set of a Visconti movie, one featuring the director's actual descendants.

There, for instance, was his nephew and namesake Luchino sipping an ice-cold Negroni as he talked with a member of the Brandolini D'Adda family (although, perhaps it was a Caracciolo or a De Benedetti or a Clavarino or a Melzi D'Eril or a Galateria di Genola or even a Belgiojoso) about the challenges of running the Medieval castle and village he and his sister, Verdi, inherited several hours outside Milan.

Not far from them sat a talking automaton from an insta llation by the Polish artist Goshka Macuga. It had one foot encased in a brick, the other in ooze. Moving its arms in a disturbingly lifelike way, the bearded contraption croaked out oracular utterances about the end of mankind.

Waiters clad in livery from Mercatores, the uniform store patronized by the elite of Milan, gave the art gizmo a wide berth as they circulated with square trays of tiny quiches stuffed with baby summer vegetables or anchovies on toast.

Into the cool evening air, the Russian model Sasha Pivovarova blew smoke from a cigarette bummed from Milla Jovovich. And the editor and longtime Prada stylist Katie Grand talked shop with the fashion critic Tim Blanks, as Diego Della Valle, the billionaire philanthropist and owner of Tod's, air-kissed — left cheek to right, in the Italian fashion — Federico Marchetti, the self-made magnate who founded and runs the Yoox Net-a-Porter Group, Europe's largest e-tailer.

And then the energetic Mr. Marchetti, seeing an American friend, darted over to regale him with stories about another recent dinner party of note, this one at Bill Gates's house outside Seattle, the one where he keeps the Codex Leicester by da Vinci on view.

Photo Miuccia Prada — and her husband, Patrizio Bertelli, Prada's chief executive — were the hosts. Credit Alessandro Grassani for The New York Times

"I asked him for selfie!" Mr. Marchetti said, scrolling through his phone to find the shot.

Carine Roitfeld, among the more redoubtable multihyphenates in fashion, sidled up to the bar and ordered her own Negroni. "Make it very light on alcohol," she told an uncomprehending waiter, who poured a healthy shot of gin into the classic aperitif (one part gin, one part vermouth rosso, one part Campari, garnished with orange peel) that some consider summer in a glass.

Ms. Roitfeld took a sip and waxed philosophical, though not in so doomful a manner as the mechanical Cassandra nearby.

She has been clearing her life of neg ative-energy people, Ms. Roitfeld said, and now felt much lighter as a consequence. "The secret to everything in life is learning to say no," she said, adding that Gisele BĂĽndchen gave her that choice piece of advice.

Photo The party entertainment included a talking figure by the the artist Goshka Macuga. Credit Alessandro Grassani for The New York Times

The lightest and briefest of rain showers fell as Ms. Prada, the hostess, walked solo across the courtyard and into the bar area. Soon, a dinner gong sounded, and guests like the actors Willem Dafoe, Jessica Chastain and Ansel Elgort; the artists Francesco Vezzoli and Nathalie Djurberg; and the designer Raf Simons moseyed into the foundation's Podium building. There were some 300 guests in all.

Before taking seats at tables set up in concentric circles like the fortifications around a castle, a few people stopped and looked at the sky.

A rainbow had formed over the Prada Foundation. And, regardless of whether the guests were titled, famous, rich beyond dreams of avarice, or winners of some genetic lottery, s imple wonder momentarily took hold of them.

Then they all pulled out their phones and snapped it for Instagram.

Correction: June 21, 2016

An earlier version of this article misspelled an Italian family name. It is Galateria di Genola, not Galeteria di Genola.

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Monday, June 20, 2016

This Model Has the Happiest Instagram Account

We can all agree that everyone could use some good vibes right about now, and what better way to get them than by infusing your Instagram feed with a fun-loving girl with the best sense of humor ever? Meet Michele Ouellet. You probably recognize her from her modeling work for Madewell, but she is also behind everyone's favorite Rosé label, Lorenza Wine. That's right: She's hilarious, she's beautiful, and she knows a lot about wine. Our kind of girl! Thankfully, her personality shines through on her Instagram account, inspiring all of us to crack and a smile (and a bottle of wine) from time to time.

Scroll through her latest posts below!

A Face in the Crowd at Moncler Gamme Bleu: Big Sean

Photo The rapper Big Sean at the Moncler Gamme Bleu show in Milan. Credit Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

MILAN — On Sunday night in Milan, Thom Browne staged his latest collection for Moncler Gamme Bleu, a campsite fantasy complete with tents, a carpet of grass and sod, and a pair of helpful costumed bears. In the audience, alongside the Giants football player Victor Cruz, the Oklahoma City Thunder basketball player Serge Ibaka and the actor Édgar RamĂ­rez, was the Grammy-nominated rapper and Kanye West protĂ©gĂ© Big Sean, there to take in his first Milan Fashion Week show.

Big Sean, whose full nam e is Sean Anderson, was on a brief break from his European stadium tour with Rihanna, which began in Amsterdam this month.

Despite jet lag — "On the way to the show just now, I kept falling asleep," he said — he perked up near the crackling campfire to discuss the new experience.

This is your first Milan Fashion Week. What do you think so far?

I think it's live; I think it's cool. I get to see a couple people — my homie Victor Cruz just texted me, like, "Yo, I'm here!"

Slide Show Moncler Gamme Bleu: Spring 2017

CreditGio Staiano by Nowfashion

Do you have a connection with Moncler?

I've been wearing Moncler. I remember the first time I saw Moncler, I was with Ye — Kanye — it was after I got my deal, he took me to the Moncler store and bought me my first Moncler vest.

He was like, you need to have a Moncler vest if you're going to be a big star?

He bought himself one, and then he bought me one. It was real inspiring.

Do you still have it?

Yeah, I'm sure I still have it in the closet somewhere — deep in there.

Does Moncler have cachet in the hip-hop community? Would you use it in a verse?

I haven't, but I would. I like it. Some clothing lines I don't really mess with like that, I don't really care for, but I like Moncler.

When you're on tour, do you have time to do anything but work? See the cities?

In Amsterdam, we were there rehearsing, too, so we were there for five days. I had a chance to see the town, hit some coffee shops.

I bet Rihanna goes hard in Amsterdam.

Yeah, we partied a little bit. It's fun, it's family. Nothing too crazy.

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